Time for a much overdue post about our experiences during Carnaval… it was a month ago, and after having this time to process everything, I still think it will be hard to truly describe what it was like. The best way to understand Carnaval is to come here and experience it for yourself, so mark your calendars for Carnaval 2011 and get ready!
This year, we joined approximately 12 other Volunteers from our group in a two bedroom house about an hour and a half from our community. In retrospect, not a brilliant idea, but all in all it was a good time, even when the water went out for several hours each day. Our group celebrated Carnaval in Parita, Chitre and Las Tablas over the course of five days, and every day brought something new/crazy. Carnaval consists of two main parts in Panama: the day time parties and the night-time parties. Every day, from about 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. people party in the streets dancing around and drinking while giant water tanks (called “culecos”) hose everyone off with fire hoses. Apparently bonus points are awarded to the guys with the hoses for hitting gringos and cameras – you can imagine the triple bonus points for gringos WITH cameras! When I was describing the culecos to my supremely gorgeous and witty BFF Laura, she astutely observed the irony of giant water trucks hosing off crowds in the middle of the dryest part of the year while many farms and animals (and sometimes people) are without water from long periods of time… as with many other things, logical priorities don´t seem to apply during Carnaval! The streets are packed with people, crowded body to body and it can be nearly impossible to navigate through the crowd at some points. Note: Navigating the crowds is not recommended for those with a weak stomach or aversion to crowds! During all of this chaos, there are several impressively crafted and extremely extravagant and beautiful floats with beauty queens (“reinas”) riding on them through the streets. There are tractors pulling the floats, but clearing the streets for a float actually isn´t generally the nightmare you might imagine it to be. Immediately following the floats are platform bleachers (also pulled by tractors) with bands playing, adding to the festivities. Interestingly enough, the hoses are turned off for the floats and reinas, but are then turned back on full strength for the bands, who enjoy a significant shower without missing a single beat. One day in Las Tablas, we were able to get access to a VIP platform above the crowds where they were serving FREE Seco for the entire afternoon… ask Bracken how this story ends. Up on the platform was a nice relief from the crowds, and I was able to take some good pictures of the chaos below.
During a break in the late afternoon/early evening, people go home to shower, change, sleep and get some food. Then, each night around 11 p.m. the party starts up again with more floats and partying in the streets. The larger Carnaval sites also have temporary clubs constructed only for Carnaval that are very popular. These are quite expensive ($10 just to get inside the parking lot, which can be quite a lot for some people here) and drinks are not cheap either. Someone had told me that some Panamanians save their money all year, just for this week of Carnaval, which I now understand much better. The dancing and drinking lasts all through the night until about 5 or 6 a.m. when people take another break for a few hours before starting all over again! It was marathon style drinking like I´ve never seen, but I never felt that people were really out of control or acting badly or dangerously. Overall, the feeling just seemed to be one of letting loose and having some fun, and everyone was there to enjoy themselves. Other than pickpocketing, there is not a large problem with crime during Carnaval, and even though I accidentally left my cell phone in a cab at 4 a.m. I actually got it back when the person that found it returned it to me!
Our province of Los Santos and the neighboring province of Hererra take their Carnavaling very seriously, and Carnaval here is the largest in the country, attracting over 100,000 people to our tiny provincial capital of about 8,000. During Carnaval, there are two reinas, one from “calle arriba” and one from “calle abajo” (the upper street and the lower street). The reinas represent different neighborhoods of their town, and everyone gets into the action with competing shirts, songs and floats. The reinas are different every year, and last year´s reina passes on her crown to the new reina at midnight on the first night of Carnaval. Throughout the week, the reinas´floats and costumes get increasingly elaborate and expensive, which was pretty amazing to see.
After Carnaval ended on Fat Tuesday, we went back to community with the priorities of doing laundry and recuperating from the festivities. The following Saturday, we ventured into town for a few hours of Internet and grocery Shopping, and found ourselves in the middle of Carnaval PART TWO (or “Carnavalito” – little Carnaval)! This was a shock for sure, and asking around, we learned that people sometimes feel depressed when the fun and excitement of Carnaval ends and everyone goes home. So, they have Carnavalito to help ease the transition back to normal life. The floats and culecos were back (and after they just finished cleaning up from the first time!) but the crowds were much smaller and there seemed to be mostly local participants and many more children.
All in all, an incredible week of experiencing Panamanian and Latin American culture, and we had a great time! It was really fun to see such a large-scale cultural celebration in our province, and with the knowledge that I have 11 months to prepare, I can look forward to next year and start saving my money now.
Lessons Learned from Carnaval 2010:
1. Crocs or other water shoes that protect your feet (including toes) are a necessity for the culeco action.
2. Cameras and water generally don´t mix, so just don´t bring it with you.
3. Keep your valuables in a money belt under your clothes – if it´s in your pocket, you WILL lose it or have it stolen.
4. Free Seco is not always a good thing!
5. Panamanian women don´t like to share stools, even if no one is sitting on them.
6. The more sparkles and color, the better! This statement is not limited to clothing…
7. Invest in one or two quality days, and then call it good.
8. Panamanians are fun-loving, friendly, and generous people! (I already knew this, but Carnaval reconfirmed it)
9. Good friends (like Melissa!) are important to have when things get crazy (or your husband drinks a lot of Seco).
Link to photos here: http://picasaweb.google.com/bracken.killpack/Carnival?feat=directlink
